The unlikely festival took over a small community 100km from Katherine, where Fijiian dance joined Yirrkala songs and the premiere of A Bit na Ta

The road from Beswick, the small Jawoyn community 100km south of Katherine, is a gauntlet of deep, sliding sand that rises in brown plumes with every passing four-wheel drive. The steering pulls, the cabin rocks, visibility drops suddenly to zero as the grey-green stringy barks cop another layer of dust.

“Sold Out. No Tickets Available at the Gate,” said the painted sign 20-odd kilometres back. There is no gate, as it happens. Instead, beyond a makeshift camping ground and a pair of unlikely shipping containers is a miraculous river, split into deep rivulets boarded over for foot traffic. Beyond that, rising from the bush, sits the most spectacular and perhaps the most logistically challenging festival site of all time.

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