Virgil Abloh oversees collection that explores more complex territory than the princess myth of glamour and tiaras

The most important outfit shown at Paris fashion week so far was not an intricate silk gown or a tastefully cut trouser suit. It was a pair of white cycling shorts and a double-breasted blazer worn by Naomi Campbell as she stood in front of a troupe of 36 models dressed in looks inspired by Diana, Princess of Wales.

This tableau was the finale of Off-White’s spring/summer 2018 fashion show, held in the sumptuous 19th-century Salle Wagram theatre. Off-White is a youth-centric brand with a tendency towards irony – the straps on its most popular handbags look like police barriers – overseen by Virgil Abloh, Kanye West’s creative director. Diana was the inspiration for the collection, which sought to explore more complex territory than the princess myth of glamour and tiaras.

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